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Small growth on anal area. Genital wart?
Just recently (past month), I have noticed a very small growth in my anal area right outside of the anus while in the shower. It's very small and doesn't appear to be increasing much in size. If it is, it's very slight. I can't see what it looks like, given the highly inconvenient placement. Could this possibly be an anal wart? The only time I've ever had sex was eight years ago when I was quite young, and it only lasted about one minute, if that (hey, I was a very young, excitable young lad. give me a break). Outside of that brief incident, I have had no sex (sadly). Because it was so long ago, I have serious doubts as to whether this growth is std-related, but I'm just checking to be sure. Usually, don't the warts appear from three to eight months after sexual contact, or something like that?

Also, and this may be an even stupider question, does the area of the genital warts indicate which type of sex was had when the disease was transmitted? As in, do anal warts only come from anal sex? If that's the case, then what I have probably isn't a wart, because I had the regular, good old-fashioned kind of sex with a vagina.

Anyways, any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Could be several non STD issues. Have a doctor look in to it!lol
I also have a young male manx with a bobed tail about 2 inches in length?
He is very affectionate and well mannnered. I want to know about his anal opening... it is very bulged out, like almost a half an inch. will this affect him later in life can I get it fixed or does it even need to be fixed.
too much man sex does that id assume,
I have a young cichlid and was wondering what species it is?
It is brown with very faint darker brown vertical stripes. Its dorsal fin and anal fin are orange on the edges, and the fish itself also has an orange tint to it. It is just under two inches, and in the tank with it are two electric yellow cichlids and two blue johanni cichlids as well.
Without a picture it's hard to tell. There are several when young that look similar to your description.
Can someone help me specify my discus breed?
I bought discus about a month and a half ago and i dont know the real name of the discus i bought. They are doing great and are very young. Their color just started coming in and its brilliant. They have a tan body with brown vertical stripes and their colors are blue and red squiggly patterns but only on their anal and dorsal fin and forehead. What is the real name of my discus?
It sounds like you have something similar to the wild type of the brown discus, Symphysodon discus. It's hard to know for sure without knowing the source of your discus, though. In captive discus breeding, there's a great deal of crossing between strains and even between species of discus. Where did you buy them? Did the supplier not know what variety they are?
Young crested gecko seems to have very big balls?
I have a crestie who I got him about 1 month ago. He is about 3.5 inches, just me guessing. I was feeding him crested gecko diet, but he was refusing to eat it. I always had to rub it on his mouth to get him to eat it and he wouldn't touch it when I put it in the cage. About 2 weeks ago I switched to meal worms because I saw him trying to eat some of the fake plants in his tank. He loves the meal worms. I have been giving him about 2 or 3 every day, skipping a day every 6 or 7 days. Is his enough? I have to break the worms in half, and sometimes he doesn't finish them. For some reason, sometimes he refuses to eat the half with the head. But my concern is his 'area'. When I first got him, I assumed it was a him because his area had a slight bulge. Now, it's growing and growing. He's eating and pooping normally (I would know, he pooped then peed on my laptop just yesterday). Is this normal? I'm starting to get worried. Also, on the sides of his anal slit, it's kind of crusty. The bulge is firm, too. Should I be concerned? The bulge hangs down about 1 cm, and is as wide as your ring finger fingernail.
Meal worms are not recommended as a staple food source for crested because for one they are knoown to cause impaction which can be fatal and two they do not contain all the vitamins your gecko needs and they will get mbd. It sounds like your gecko is impacted. Seek a reptile vet or vet with experience in reptiles in your area

Ask wherever you got your gecko from what they were feeding him. If it was babyfood your gecko can be weaned off it if you mix organic babyfood with his cgd, nothing citris. Also, a crested gecko eats at night and you may not catch him eating, but if you see poop a few times a week then he is eating. I have only caught my gecko eating on his own 2 times but he poops and seems to be healthy so he's eating.
Anal fissures? Blood on toilet paper?
I notice when I wipe I see specks of blood on the toilet paper. I thought I had a yeast infection recently, and the vaginal symptoms have subsided, but the rear still feels tender to the touch. I've had little specks on the toilet paper before, and I just passed it off, but this has been going on for a couple weeks now, and it's a bit more blood. I'm very young for cancer, so I do not think it is that. I went to see a doctor about the yeast infection and they also checked for a urinary tract infection, but didn't do anything about the rear.
Your bottom may be sore from a bowel movement or multiple which ended up tearing skin. Fissures are cracks in the skin near the rectum, which can take a very long time to heal. You may want to see a doctor about them, but unless it is extremely large they will tell you it will have to heal itself. The other most likely possibility is hemorrhoids (internal or external), which once again your doctor will more than likely tell you to let heal.
One other thing.....if the blood is dark or dried make sure you see a dr immediately, but if it is bright red, you know it is likely coming from a rectal source. (I am telling you this because I was 18 and did have rectal cancer, and these are all the things I learned along the way)
Pinworms In the Vaginal area! Help!!!!?
I know i have them in the vaginal area, I have had them once before when i was very young in the anal area but i know that they are very common. I work in a daycare facility so i am guessing that is where i contracted them. i have already bought the over the counter drug called PRONTO-PLUS .it is not working!! i have taken it twice. I dont have medical insurance or i would go to the doctor. I am irritable with this situation. Someone Please Help!
Wash out your vagina with water and take the medicine you got at the store. Pinworms reproduce in your colon not your vagina. They have probably just squirmed in there while you were sleeping and need to be washed out. The medicine should take care of the worms reproducing in your colon.
How do you Sex Peacock Cichlids?
just wondering how to tell the difference between male and female African Peacock Cichlids. The peacocks at my local fish store are very healthy but they are all still very young (about 1.5 inches)...how big do they have to be in order to sex them correctly? will the males develope egg spots? how big will they be when the eggs spots show on the anal fin?

thanks for any help!
It is difficult to sex pet shop peacocks because they often have been treated to display the male coloration, which with the right chemical cues, both females and males can do. Once you buy them the homone balances of the fish slowly go back toward normal, but the females will retain some male characteristics and have fertility problems precluding them from breeding sucessfully.

If you knew the fish were all from one brood, you could go by size, with the larger fish being males, even at an inch or less. At an inch and a half to two inches, egg spots and some male color, especially blue, should start showing up. However having been at a petshop, any male characteristics could have been artificially induced since males sell for more than females.
My Brazilian Rainbow Boa is VERY nippy, it is increasingly difficult to even get near her, HELP?
I've had my Brazilian Rainbow Boa (named Dreamer) for about 3 months, I was very selective as the local reptile shop had a clutch of 10 to choose from. While I was saving up I had constantly visited the shop that was selling her, I had of course handled a few different Brazilian Rainbow Boa's that intrigued my interest and decided to go with a smaller female (they sexed her for me) because I want to breed as a hobby and I'm meticulous about keeping feed and shedding records with all my snakes and with a younger snake I could provide a longer line of history and as it matured I could watch for any undesirable qualities that would make for a bad breeder. The day I purchased her I had handled for around 15 minutes while we picked out the appropriate tank, substrate, and so on. I have a 40 gallon Breeder for her with a sliding lock top, however as she is maybe 14-16 inches long I opted to house her in a 10 gallon tank with a sliding/locking lid for starters. I asked the dealer one last time to feed her and she had not hesitated. I have a total of 6 snakes (Two Corns, a California King, a Ball Python, and a Bull Snake) so I have some experience with Snakes. However, she's my first higher maintenance snake and my first boa if that makes any difference. We let her acclimate to her new home for about 10 days before feeding her, again she was very sweet and ate a F/T Fuzzy without any issues. I feed her every 5-7 days, she ate twice more without any issues and went into her first shed (in my car). I usually feed my snakes the day I notice their old skin in the tank and for her this is when it went downhill. Since that shed she's become increasingly more hostile, at first she was just very tense when I handled her. She started to coil and cling onto my fingers during handling, and now she's progressed to striking at me anytime I get near her. I'm very anal about washing my hands before handling, I use tongs to handle the mice, and have even stopped wearing cologne the days I plan to work with her (just in case) as snakes have a fantastic sense of smell. Present day I have to use deli cups to remove her from her habitat and into her feeding tank, I have a small hook as I had problems with my California King when I first got him and he settled very quick with constant handling. When I tried removing her with the hook I noticed she ignored the hook for the most part and still struck straight at my hand holding the hook. I know she's stressed and a stressed snake doesn't feed very well. I still move her into her feeding tank every time I attempt to feed her but I usually end up having to leave the F/T fuzzy in her tank for her to find, as she eats that way. In her feeding tank she usually hides her head under her body and shows interest in her food, but she hesitates. If she strikes at the F/T fuzzy she never hold and coils like she used to. Her intentions seem very defensive as she releases it quickly and sometimes she moves away from her prey. I've tried shorter, but more frequent sessions handling her and made no progress. Her strikes are bearable at this size and I do not replace her in her habitat after she tags me because I had been told that if the source of her actions comes from mistaking me for a predator then replacing her will only encourage the behavior because she'll think her actions were successful. I know snakes aren't personable and identification usually doesn't go beyond scent and body heat so I'm not sure how deep that theory goes. She's gorgeous though and I have my heart set on keeping her, I need any advice on breaking this habit before she grows and her bites become more painful and dangerous. Any help is greatly appreciated, I am a bit of book worm so I've done research through books and a little on the internet as it is sometimes unreliable. Since she's been in my care I know she has never been mistreated whether accidentally or intentionally, I have never dropped her, and when she strikes I don't pull away because I've pulling away can damage their teeth. As far as her habitat, I monitor the warm and cool end temperatures and the humidity. I use a UVA 60W bulb in a standard 5.5" Ceramic Dome over the left side of her standard 10 gal. tank and that keeps the warm end around 90 degress F. The cool end is usually around 75-80 degrees F and I have the thermometers at ground level so I know what the temperature is on the ground where she would spend most her time. As far as humidity I maintain it pretty well around 70-75%. I have two hiding spots, a half long on the warm side and a smaller coconut dome on the cool side and a medium sized piece of wood with branches in case she wants to climb. The Coconut dome is rather small because I have a larger diamter water dish on the cooler side for humidity purposes and both hiding spots as well as the wood are from Pet Stores. For Substrate I use a manufactures Cypress Mulch as it hold humidity well and doesn't corrode or break down near as easy as the Fir
Your snake has most likely gotten over her initial...well, I call it shipping shock (even though you didn't ship). She was kept in multiple cage mate holdings in a petstore, she was then moved to your home. It can take a while for them to come out of that. I would suggest that you put some smooth leather gloves (gardening gloves are ideal) and handle her with that. Boas are very heat sensitive and I find less reaction when wearing gloves. It also protects you from the bites so that you react less. I use them often for many of my aggressive species. I think your warm end is a little high. A basking spot of 90, if you have a light (I don't use them) is fine but ambient temps should be around 85 or so. She might be too warm. In a 10 gl. tank, there won't be an ambient temp of 85, it will be 90. Substrate is fine. As long as she can fit in the hide, it's sufficient. I also recommend that you handle her during the day. Boas are in general night hunters and become most aggressive during the evening hours when they are out hunting. The boas and pythons I can easily handle during daylight hours will take your hand off at night. I would just continue to gently handle your snake to see if she finally calms down. I've not found that boas or pythons tame down like other species such as colubrids. They are kind of like either tame or not. That doesn't mean that your snake won't tame, I'm just saying that is my experience with the boas and pythons I have. The way yours is striking sounds more like defensive biting rather than anything else. You might try leaving her alone for a while and see if she calms down. Some of my snakes that were skittish and aggressive calmed down after allowing them some peace and quiet. Believe it or not....less is sometimes more. Handle your cornsnakes and kings and don't handle her at all for a while. then try holding her and see how she does. Give her a month or more if necessary. It sounds contradictory but I've had several cornsnakes that were very nervous, tail rattlers, strikers when young and I just didn't handle them except to take them out to feed and weigh/photos. They became some of my calmest snakes later. If you're a fan of keeping records as I am, you might want to check out www.iherp.com It's an online tracking forum where you can keep track of feeding/sheds, breeding, everything. It's fast and easy to keep records and I don't have to have 30-40 books to keep records in.
Sex question: Is this out of the norm?
I am not very young but I only have a few long term relationships at the past. I am in a new relationship right now (9 months) and the sex life is phenomenon. One thing gets me nervous is that my new bf wants to do my anal. I continue to refuse it but I see he is working up to it. My question is, is doing anal a common thing among couples? Would it be even enjoyable on the female side?
It can be very enjoyable for both people if there is good communication and respect. The woman must be the one who sets the pace based on her physical and emotional comfort level. You may consider watching an instructional video, alone or together, to see if it is something you'd like to try.

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